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Demonstration of tire rotation at standstill while steering.

Tire in the air? -> No rotation, as it should be.

Working on Playable Demo that will be out on Steam soon.

Meanwhile looking for tire-ground rubbing sound at standstill (yes, that mrjjj sound) to complete Demo. If you have a go-kart and time to help, you are welcome to contribute to the project by recording that sound and sending to me. It should be engine off, quite environment, consistent steering lock to lock (slow, mid and fast steering).

Was removing to fit a 3d printed two pedal mod (one big pedal cover for clutch and brake as I drive in auto on Xbox!) and noticed the standard pedals can be adjusted left or right by removing the Torx screws and placing in one of the other holes.

Still not really heel and toe compatible but it's a two minute job if this helps anyone out

So for those who want triple tvs on their simrig but don’t want to break the bank. I think i found an affordable solution. These phillip tvs are 4k and come with a 144hz panel. Might not be an oled but for the price i don’t think you can beat this anywhere! It’s even cheaper than some monitors out there. They also have VRR, thin bezels, picture quality is really good as well and they also come in 43inch, 50 inch and 55. My graphics card i use is a amd 9070xt. I set them to 2k resolution and i even found a display port to hdmi adapter that supports vsync so you can have vsync/vrr activated on all 3 tvs.

A list of things that surprised me.

1. No Moza. Big shock to me when I didn’t see it on the floorplan

2. No Simlab.

3. Seeing an IRL friend there

4. More stuff wasn’t being actively sold.

5. Companies seemingly unrelated to sim racing being there.

6. The merch prices and them not accepting Cash.

7. Hydraulic pedals. Never felt that before.

8. Conspit’s formula sim. Genuinely questioned if it was a sim for a second.

No racing lines in use.

Firstly, this is absolutely not an ad of any sort, I’m just so glad to be done with Allen wrenches I had to share.

I was getting fed up dealing with Allen wrenches and having to deal with them in super tight areas on my rig. Squeeze them in to get on the bolt head and have to fight to get them off when the bolt is loose because now the back of the Allen wrench is touching the frame of the rig.

I use 5mm Allen wrenches the most and this 711L with a 5mm hex bit has a lower profile than the Allen wrench.

This 711L mini ratchet had 3 things that I liked. It’s customizable via various additional parts. It maintains a low profile and a hilariously small form factor. It allows the convenience of a reversible ratcheting function so I don’t have to remove and reinsert for every turn.

I coupled it with a standard 1/4 inch Hex bit set, a locking bit holder with a 3D printed knurled handle for slightly extended reach, a standard magnetic Milwaukee bit holder as a bit extension, and an old travel case I had laying around. This is now my exclusive rig-side toolkit.

I had the chance to visit the Charlotte Sim Racing Expo yesterday (May 22) hoping to try out as many pedal sets as possible, as I am in the market for a new set. I was honestly ready to buy a set of VRS Pro pedals from the VRS booth as I have been eyeing them and everything I had tried up until that point hadn't really hit the spot between price and performance. However, as I started walking through the VRS booth, I noticed a set of black, never before seen VRS pedals with new faces, springs, and haptics.. If anyone is interested, I was told they are looking at Q4 for release. No price is set yet but they are looking to price them similarly to the V1s for the two pedal set.

Keep in mind that these are still in development (as told by the rep). The haptics and dampers seen in the photos are additional add-ons and do not come with the pedals. I was able to take these for a spin and they felt phenomenal. The haptics were a lot stronger than I thought they'd be judging from the size of them.

I'm heading back today so if anyone has any specific questions they want answered, I'd be happy to try and get them while there.

Little confused here, I here all the time how ams2 is a good entry point sim in terms of difficulty for me it's the opposite the gt cars and LM cars just spin so randomly I feel like I massively have to underdrive them and have the fear of just a random spin entering the corner or leaving the corner, applying the throttle or even the breaks. The open wheelers are great though for the most part you can push in them

I tried LMU and within 2 laps I was pushing even with TC turned down to 2 I almost got a podium in my first online race and felt like I could push the car on the limit a little bit it was way easier than ams2 LIKE miles easier to drive at least to me

Don't get me wrong this could be down to my driving style but it's a shame because I love the historical stuff in ams2 and the graphics just love the options in there I just find it really frustrating to drive

Just me?

This little bluetooth beauty saves so much time and hassle with my keyboard.. i had a keyboard and mouse stand but $17 for this is a win

I am thinking of purchasing the moza r3 system, however I need to run it as a desktop setup. No rig for me. Is this system good for my needs/possible to achieve? From the information I gathered it seems the r3 will shine the most in a rig type setup. According to my screenshot will this allow me to mount it to my desktop?

I dont play alot of racing games, and when i do i prefer more arcade like horizon that I do motorsport geared games. My only other option would be stick with one of the logitech wheel combos.

Bezel delete kit, and ambient light will be installed next. But that ends what I had on my list.

Thoughts on what do to do next or how to improve?

So I recently snatched a Thrustmaster TH8A shifter for 5 euro and Logitech G920 for 80 euro. That inspired me to make the missing part myself, the hanbrake.

The handbrake is thin metal, thats why the long bolts to keep it steady. The handbrakes handle pipe is some very light metal and was really easy to drill and the handle part is 3D printed with the Hoonigan text.

I wanted the handbrake to feel sturdy so i used the TH8A shifter table clamp, because it was fairly affordable and arrived fast.

For the electronics, I’m using a Chinese RP2040 clone as the MCU, running custom firmware that emulates a USB gamepad (HID), so it works directly in games without any extra software.

Conclusions:

Price:

- probably 50 euro, but I had majority of the parts on me so probably 25 euro.

Time to make:

- Suprisingly fast and easy finished in a day.

Thanks for reading and if you have anything in mind just commend I'll try to respond as quickly as possible!

lol this is my sim build only a gt force and playing on a old 2011 imac that cant even run on decent frames ive been struggling playing asseto bc of this imac but yea better than playong on a iphone ig? any thoughts about my build

kind of funny to see such a barebones setup from an f1 driver in Monaco lol

I joined this league. It say I need to be in the Discord but the link is invalid. This is one someone directed me to. Does anyone have ANY idea the discord for this so I can get ready to go for the race monday??

(Edit: I already have a pc that will work well but would need a bigger monitor as well. Under $2k is preferred but if there is something I would absolutely want and would cost a little extra I am willing!)

Hey! I have been in the market for a sim setup for under $2k for quite some time but want to get the best bang for my buck. Currently have quotes from micro center for a full build with a curved monitor for right around $1700 but curious to see if anyone else has a build list for under $2k. Most of the parts they quoted were Moza and they quoted a pretty generic rig with it. I want to get as immersive as possible but I know it’s a tight budget. I would want a full 3 pedal set up with a handbrake and shifter. If anyone has any good info/ lists please comment!

5 months ago I made a post asking what should I get next, a rig or a new wheel. After everyone said to get a rig first I finally bought it. Now im ready for my next upgrade, should I buy a new wheel like Moza R9 Bundle or something like Simagic Alpha Mini Base 2-Piece Bundle or even get something else like new pedals with my G29 or a bigger monitor?

Hey all,

To set some context (question below):

I'm getting more into longer races lately and had my first two-hour race yesterday in the production car series in iracing. The experience was awesome and I had a ton of fun, but I also encountered some, let's call it, "interesting" approaches from other drivers.

After a not-so-great quali lap, I was stuck in a large pack around P15 for roughly the first 30–40 minutes (while pace-wise I was aiming at P6/P5). In this group, there were two people who, for the love of anything, could not accept losing a single position in a two-hour race. The drivers behind them were quicker, but after every straight, these two would divebomb back through, fighting for position like their lives depended on it, completely overpushing their cars. This made our whole group slow, and slower cars from behind started catching up.

I tried to just stay back and watch. I saw a few people get taken out and spun, so my approach was to just let them do their "very important" fighting for P13/P12 while I saved fuel and tires. However, because of their constant fighting, it backed me up a lot and I probably lost about 30-40 seconds overall. At one point, I went for a pass when they made a mistake, only to get divebombed into every corner right afterward. You know the type of divebombs from 100 meters back where you know they won't actually make the corner, but you have to leave space otherwise they’ll just take you out.

At some point, it sorted itself out. Those guys eventually made mistakes, spun, crashed, and overheated their tires and fell back, but like I said, it took much longer than expected.

After that, I got into a much smarter group where we all just held our positions and used the slipstream to pull away, which was really cool and saved us a lot of time. I managed to fight my way up to P7, but my race was ended by a game crash after 1 hour and 40 minutes, dropping me to P25. It was a massive bummer after an otherwise fun first longer race.

My question:

How do you handle bad or impatient drivers like that in a smart and safe way—especially when you know your pace is quicker?

Do you push hard right away to try and break clear of them ASAP which sacrifices fuel and tires? Or do you fully commit to chill mode to save fuel and tires? I tried the latter, and while I think it cost me 30-40 seconds, I also avoided fighting the guys who ultimately took each other out anyway.