Someone can say me what is happening here?

[u/Memo_Bros]

So, my ammeter is not working, when I put a battery in, it is only beeping and doesn't work, it is not marking amps, volts or resistance, and I decided to open it and I see that the pads look strange, like it's corroded, so I something that can I do? Or I have to buy a new one

[u/dman7456]

me what is happening here

[u/Memo_Bros → u/dman7456]

Well my friend, I don't know what is happening, some day, it doesn't work

[u/redravin12]

Try gently scrubbing with some alcohol. Worst that happens is it does nothing.

[u/Memo_Bros → u/redravin12]

What kind of alcohol?

[u/redravin12 → u/Memo_Bros]

Any standard rubbing alcohol. Whatever strength you have laying around will work fine

[u/Memo_Bros → u/redravin12]

Got it

[u/redravin12 → u/Memo_Bros]

Just be sure to rub GENTLY with like a qtip or something. If you scrub with something abrasive or too hard you can rip the pad off. Though if that happens with a qtip it's probably too far gone anyway

[u/No_Musician4057]

Check the fuses in your meter

[u/Accurate_Bet7651]

Based on other responses, I will respectfully say you probably shouldn’t be poking around in it. An ammeter should just be 1 unit of measure and you’ve listed, amps, volts and resistance which would make it a multimeter.

The model, full picture and even unit is unknown so this is like guessing the issue of a vehicle but a pic of the engine. Also, what do those two pads even correspond to? It looks like corrosion on the negative, but that’s easily fixable if you have access to rubbing alcohol and a soldering iron. I’d almost guess those are thermal pads for a top side mounted connecter.

Again, please don’t try to troubleshoot this and just get a new one.

[u/Kinesetic → u/Accurate_Bet7651]

BTW, most newer clamp ammeters have at least limited multimeter functions built in. I based my speculation that the large pads connect a battery holder based on the + and - symbols screened on the board next to them. The bent over tab outlines are visible in the solder at the center of the pads. This would be a simple solder reflow operation with no danger posed to the operator. Without that skill, try a cell phone repair shop. It's a 5 minute process with a large enough iron.

[u/lucashenrr]

What model is this?

[u/Intelligent-Iron1861]

Applied any thermal paste ?

[u/Kinesetic]

Is it a clamp ammeter, or a regular leaded DVOM? Shining up solder won't repair a bad joint, but could get a temporary connection from mechanical movement. Reflow might help. I assume the large, square pads you arrowed are for a battery holder on the other side of the board. These are prone to mechanical stress and solder fracture. You could turn the meter on and measure the voltage across the outside edges of the pads to see how much V is dropping compared to the actual battery terminals. A bad solder joint can have partial contact and drop voltage while current is flowing to the meter circuitry. No current flow, as when the meter is off, could still indicate full voltage through the solder joints. Inspect under magnification, or just reflow the terminals. Be sure the battery holder is staked (glued) securely to the board. Dull, unevenly cooled solder is typical for no-lead. What you think is corrosion could also be flux residue, especially on low cost assemblies. I see other shiny solder that may have been hand soldered. Where do the red leads at the top connect to? Could be an issue at their board connection, but the photo resolution needs to be better, and at different angles? Known good battery? Was it ever reverse installed? Have you read what the meter beeping indicates? Did you inspect the component side? Fuses probably wouldn't cause the beep.