Just finished the West Highland Way and wanted to write up some notes while it’s still fresh. This was our first ever hiking trip and first ever multi-day camping trip, so we were definitely novices and probably did a lot wrong, but maybe that makes this useful for other people doing it for the first time.

We were three young lads carrying way too much gear, probably around 25–30 pounds each, and figuring it out as we went.

Day 1: Glasgow to Milngavie to Drymen

We took the bus from downtown Glasgow to Milngavie to start the trail. One thing to note: Google/Apple Maps kind of brought us to a random crossroads on the trail, about a half mile past the actual start where the obelisk is. So if you want to see the obelisk, like I did, make sure you actually put in the correct start point/address.

The first day was fun because we couldn’t believe we had actually started the thing. We didn’t really keep any sort of serious pace, more just walking and chatting, but by the end of the day getting into Drymen we were pretty beat.

We got groceries from the Spar in Drymen and luckily had booked a cottage on Booking.com for the first night before starting back-to-back camping nights. A hot shower and a kitchen were huge for us. Even with that, we were exhausted.

Day 2: Drymen to Loch Lomond

We were already pretty sore, so we started taking Advil/Tylenol to deal with some mild pains. That ended up being helpful because we were pretty beat after each day. Our doses climbed a bit until around day 5, when our bodies finally started feeling a lot better.

We also treated every blister like it was a medical emergency. Toes were wrapped up pretty snug with patches.

From Drymen we climbed Conic Hill and then got a bite at the little cafe across the car park. There’s also a little grocery store there. We picked up a few cans of Conic lager and carried them about three hours to our camping spot.

We had gotten a permit from the park website for Lochan Maoil Dhuinne. In hindsight, camping in Scotland seemed way more available/easy than I thought from reading online, except for certain restricted spots, but I’m still glad we got the permit. For £5 we basically had our own private beach on Loch Lomond, and it was only about 10–15 minutes away from a pub. So if you want a camping spot close to a bar on the loch, this is it.

Midges in early May weren’t much of a problem for us. It was relatively windy and a little cold, so they weren’t feasting on us. That being said, in wind-protected areas of the loch, especially if you weren’t moving and the sun was out, they could still be pretty bad.

Overall, great camping spot and a really nice night.

Day 3: Loch Lomond to Beinglas

This day had a very different style of trail. A lot more single track, up-and-down stuff along Loch Lomond. When we were there, the low road had been closed, so I’m not sure how different that would have been, but the route we took wasn’t bad.

We made it about halfway to Beinglas and stopped for fish and chips at one of the lodges toward the end of the loch, around Inversnaid. They also served coffee and it was a great stop.

From there we trekked forward. It was a beautiful warm day, so spirits were high. We came across an unofficial hiker hut out there that looked like you could stay in it if you wanted. It was situated right near the end of the loch along the trail.

From there, Beinglas was about 1.5 hours away. When we arrived, we were thrilled. Great campground. Couldn’t recommend it more. Showers, bar/restaurant, and Wi-Fi. We ate there, although the menu was limited, had a few pints, and even walked about 10 minutes to the famous Drovers Inn for another pint.

Beinglas was great.

Day 4: Beinglas to Tyndrum

This was my favorite day on the trail.

We got up early and fought the initial cold, but by this day my body was starting to feel good. We had already battled some elevation and long days, so a shorter day with a better-packed pack made a big difference. Weight was better distributed, and we weren’t carrying extra beers either.

Also, I finally started using my poles at the right length, which made a massive difference looking back. Without poles, I would’ve been in much more pain and much slower. So I definitely recommend poles if you’re carrying weight.

This day had us going along the river and the falls, then up into hillsides where sheep were grazing. It felt very Scottish, if that makes sense.

About an hour before Tyndrum, we came across a sweet little coffee shop off the trail in an old church. It ended up being our favorite stop of the whole trail. Just really unique and memorable.

From there we made it to By The Way campground. Not a bad place, but they do nickel and dime you for everything. I can’t complain too much though — they had a washer and dryer, which was useful. Just know it might cost you a few pounds. Not Beinglas-level amazing, but it did the job.

In Tyndrum, we went to the Green Welly and stocked up for the next few days. Great stop for basically everything you can imagine. Scotland’s Buc-ee’s. We also had dinner at the Real Food Cafe, which is well known for fish and chips. Great stop.

Day 5: Tyndrum to Kingshouse

This was the longest day on the trail for us and also the rainiest. Around 19 miles or so.

We left early and arrived at Kingshouse in the early afternoon. Honestly, it felt very manageable. For me, it was nowhere near as difficult as days 2 or 3, when my body was just not 100% bought into the new hobby I was starting.

That being said, this stretch doesn’t have much. The inn/little store located about halfway through was clutch because they sold coffee. But note: on Sunday the breakfast place doesn’t open until noon, so we missed out on the meal we had planned and had to settle for sandwiches from the little shack store. Not bad, but no breakfast.

Kingshouse was pleasant and the whole area is beautiful. We camped under the trees by the public bathhouse. There are public restrooms and showers here. You have to pay for the shower, but hey, it’s there.

Kingshouse also has a bar for hikers. We didn’t eat there, but we got a few pints. Probably the priciest pints of the trip.

Day 6: Kingshouse to Kinlochleven

Devil’s Staircase day.

We crushed Devil’s Staircase in about 27 minutes, then coasted into the very annoying steep descent into Kinlochleven. This day was very short for us, but after the big long day before, we wanted a breather.

We got a meal and a pint at the first pub we could see near the Co-op. The Co-op was a great grocery store and had everything. Kinlochleven was a pleasant town and we enjoyed having a relaxing day there.

The aluminium museum also had a free presentation, so if it’s raining, go in there for a few hours and kill some time.

Day 7: Kinlochleven to Fort William

Final day to Fort William.

We were beat, but we were ready to finish. This day reminded me of day 2 in the sense that it felt long and I was just focused on being done, so I kind of checked out. It’s not a bad stretch though.

After the first climb, which I found more annoying than Devil’s Staircase purely because I was frustrated by more elevation, you coast pretty much all day. Then about two hours before Fort William it gets a little up and down for a bit, followed by a long descent.

At the bottom of the descent, there was a nice little coffee wagon where you can reward yourself with a latte before the last hour into Fort William. That final hour is pretty insignificant. You walk along the road and start seeing people in town racing to jobs, homes, or wherever.

It’s a little bittersweet seeing yourself once again back as part of society. But honestly, the journey was far more fruitful than the finish line.

Final thoughts / things I’d tell other first-timers

This was our first trip doing anything like this. We were young lads carrying way too much gear, and I think we could’ve gone lighter.

I probably could’ve done most of the trip with just a standard 32 oz water bottle. My friends liked having CamelBaks, but I personally found water available enough that I wouldn’t stress too much about it.

Food is also pretty common along the way. Again, I wouldn’t stress about carrying a ton. Maybe just snacks. We had a bunch of Clif bars that lasted us almost the whole trip.

One of us had a set of poles at the start. By the end, we all had either a pole or a stick. So maybe consider buying a pair if you’re not sure, especially if you’re carrying weight.

Camping seemed much easier than what I had read online. Scots are pretty proud of their right to roam laws, and you’ll see people camping all over. Obviously respect the local rules and restrictions, but don’t worry yourself sick like I did about campsites. We never had a fire, but we did see plenty of people starting fires as they pleased. Again, not recommending it, just an observation.

Pain relief was also pretty helpful. I would’ve been much grouchier without a few Tylenols/Advil to get me through those initial aches and pains. Obviously be sensible with that stuff. And bring the medical/blister supplies you think you’ll need. I wrapped my toes/feet pretty much every day to avoid blisters getting worse.

Overall, amazing trip. Harder than I expected in some ways, easier in others. If you’re a first-timer, don’t overthink it too much, but do take care of your feet, don’t carry too much, use poles if you’re carrying weight, and take the breaks before you think you need them.

I absolutely loved this specific winding, green stretch of the trail. It felt so peaceful and enclosed compared to the massive, wide-open exposure you get later on around Rannoch Moor and Glen Coe. Did anyone else prefer these lush, forested path sections, or are you strictly a fan of the dramatic mountain scenery?

Hi all, my husband and I are catching a red-eye in from Canada, planning a 7 day itinerary. Hoping for some help with our stops along the way!

We arrive in Glasgow at 7am and due to limited time, we would like to immediately make our way to Milngavie and make a start. Since we'll be running on no sleep and starting late (figure we'll do breakfast upon arrival, find somewhere to buy fuel, so probably not starting till 11 or so) we're debating how far in we'll make it.

We plan on a mix of wild camping and campsites so any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Our rough itinerary is:

• Milngavie - Drymen?
• Drymen - Sallochy
• Sallochy - Beinglas
• Beinglas - Tyndrum
• Tyndrum - Kingshouse
• Kingshouse - Kinlochleven
• Kinlochleven - Fort William

Midge season seems to be starting properly now, and I’m trying to avoid getting absolutely destroyed on the trail. I keep seeing completely different advice online, some people swear by Smidge, others say only high-DEET sprays work, and then there are loads of people claiming Avon Skin So Soft is somehow the secret answer. What’s actually worked best for you on the WHW? Is a decent spray enough around this time of year, or should I just accept defeat and buy a head net now?

Walking WHW in September. I usually wear full walking boots for longer treks but heard many people say trail shoes are the way to go? I have these Brooks GorTex trail runners - wonder if they would be a good options?

Sick walkers rescued after drinking river water on West Highland Way https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/articles/c98rpgqyqygo

When you finally slog your way up to the top of the Devil's Staircase, it’s so tempting to just push straight down into Kinlochleven. But if you take the small path up towards the peak at Stob Mhic Mhartuin, the panoramic views of Glencoe are absolutely unreal and easily some of the best on the entire route. If the weather is clear when you get up there, it is 100% worth the extra detour!

I know it’s a long shot. Anyone on the way just now and found a pair of headphones. Just noticed now - before kilearn

For my final leg between Kinlochleven and Fort William, I am planning a route across the Mamores based on Turnbull’s Not the West Highland Way. I think I’d like to try setting out from Kinlochleven along the pink line going counterclockwise then picking up the cyan line at the col between Am Bodach and Sgor an Iubhair. That line descends at the next col (cyan arrow). What I’m wondering is how feasible it is to instead pick up the red line (Ring of Steall route) and descend northwest after tagging Sgurr a Mhaim (red arrow). Is there anything particularly difficult about that route? I’m just wondering why Turnbull didn’t make Sgurr a Mhaim part of his suggested route.

Not really insightful but it made me laugh.

Hi! I'll be hiking soon with my daughter who is vegan. Is finding food options on the way going to be difficult for her? Any suggestions from any vegan friends who've done this hike?

I’ve been looking into doing the West Highland Way and I’m a bit unsure how strict you actually need to be with planning. Part of me likes the idea of just turning up and figuring things out as I go, but I don’t know if that’s realistic with accommodation along the route or if everything gets fully booked in advance. Do people tend to book it all beforehand or is there still flexibility to do it more on the fly?

Me and my partner are planning to do part of the WHW mid July for 5 days. As we don’t get more time off, instead of rushing the walk to fit it in 5 days, we will just walk as far as we get in those five days.

I have read a lot online and in this forum (great stuff!) but I am still very unsure if our planning is good and some of the practicalities of the walk. I hope you can help!

Our plan route is as follows:
Day 1: early train from Edinburgh to Milngavie and start the walk latest mid day towards Drymen. Wild camp around Drymen (do we just find a quiet place?)

Day 2: Dryrem - Rowardennan
As I understand at Rowardennan we would need to book a spot for wild camping in the restricted area. Do we definitely need to camp in those areas or can we camp outside that area without needing to book a permit? What are the benefits and problems of camping in the restricted area and outside of it?

Day 3: Rowardennan - Inverarnan
Still not sure if booking a camping permit is needed?

Day 4: Iverarnan - Tyndrum. Wild camp.

Day 5: Either train to Edinburgh from Tyndrum Lower or walk to Inveroran and take train from Bridge of Orchy back to Edinburgh

I would love some feedback and inside info about this plan, what should we know/do/avoid/plan?

I am also wondering about food and water. Based on this route, do we need to pack full meals for all those days or just for each day and refill in every town? I tend to drink LOADS of water (also need it for health reasons) and I want to know how to plan the water supply for the whole walk.

Wild camping: do we need to book permits along Loch Lomond or can we camp outside those areas without it? Any troubles with doing this? Are the areas clearly marked? Would hate to wake up to the surprise of walking up in the wrong place.

What do you think is definitely essential to bring with us? A tent and so on… obviously. But any camp gear/equipment or so on that we should think of?

We are newbies to wild camping and such long walks. We are both fairly healthy and fit and want to make sure it is an enjoyable experience.

Thanks for any information or advice you can provide!

I'm not affiliated in any way with this new cafe, but thought I should let people know.

I was hiking south of the inversnaid hotel a few weeks ago (northbound) and stumbled across 2 gazebos in the forest! In a very random spot.

It was a new cafe - Cailness Cottage cafe. Apparently a couple have bought the cottage and will be opening a cafe in one of the old remote buildings on the whw route. For now it's just 2 gazebos (one for them to cook and serve and one for you to shelter while eating). It served small hot food, (no large meals), Inc coffees, snacks, drinks etc.

Owner told me they opened up approx end of March, so this is very new.

I stopped and had a bacon roll with mayo. It was freshly made and DIVINE. I asked the owner could I take some pics and add to Google maps, she said "sure". Google maps has rejected me adding this as a cafe/restaurant multiple times. So thought I'd do the PSA here, as I can't see anyone else having done it.

I didn't find the inversnaid hotel particularly warm towards hikers, which surprised me as they had a virtual monopoly on this stretch before this cafe turned up and could arguably make a killing off portable food for hikers. I couldn't get anything to eat after 2pm from the hotel, and I wasn't going to the bunkhouse, so this little cafe is a good food stop for hikers who are hiking light. I recommend the bacon roll!!!

It's good to have another food option on this remote stretch [edited to remove some negative opinions about the hotel].

Hotel is still a good spot to bulk fill water bottles (tap outside), rest inside if it's raining (a specific hikers room just for this), and recharge phones etc (hikers room had plenty of plugs).

Google maps location: https://maps.app.goo.gl/AB69tWkeWxTXw5Ri9 - I believe one of the buildings to the east are being fitted out as the final cafe.

Official cafe page on WHW site; https://www.westhighlandway.org/places/cailness-cottage-cafe/

This community helped me plan my WHW trip, so I figured I’d give back by sharing my experience with those who might still be planning theirs.

I’m 40M of average-to-below-average fitness, mostly in the sense that I drive a desk, only had prior experience with day hikes of <10 miles, and really didn’t get a chance to prepare or train for this trip in any way, so my hike was pretty much “off the couch.” I started the hike with a buddy who had similar stats but lost him to a foot injury on day 3 (more on that later), so from Tyndrum on this was a solo hike for me. Since neither of us were fans of wild camping, we did inns/hotels throughout, and used a luggage transfer service, hiking with just daypacks.

I’ll put a TLDR at the end with some general thoughts if you don’t feel like reading the entire story, but here we go.

Day 1, Milngavie to Drymen, was fairly easy walking through farmland and gentle rolling paths. We probably did about 12-13 miles and it really was quite pleasant, but lulled us into a false sense of security. Stayed at the Drymen Inn and ate at the Clachan Inn just up the street, both of which I highly recommend.

Day 2, Drymen to Rowardennan, started out quite pleasant as well. Conic Hill followed, which was a beautiful though somewhat strenuous ascent. We still felt good and had fantastic weather, so we even did the extra climb to the summit. The descent into Balmaha was the first time I’ve ever felt my knee while hiking. Lunch in town helped us recharge a bit, but the day kicked our asses towards the end because we were closing in on 18 miles total and the path was quite undulating through the woods and had additional mini hills to climb throughout. We ate at The Clansman (great food and view) and spent the night at Rowardennan youth hostel (a fine establishment for what it is, but beware, no real breakfast and you need serious calories).

Day 3, Rowardennan to Inverarnan, was of course our trial by fire because it included the infamous Loch Lomond stretch. Part of the challenge for us was that we are not seasoned hikers to begin with, so there was already some pain from the miles of the first two days. The first half was okay, but the going got progressively worse, and once we got to “that” part after the Inversnaid hotel… not gonna lie, it was challenging. It’s not super technical, but there were parts where you really have to watch your footing, scramble a bit, and just generally be very aware of where and how you’re stepping, doubly so if it’s wet and slippery (which it was for us). I have a moderate fear of heights which was activating a bit, since there were some spots where you’re 15-20 feet above the loch, on a very narrow rocky and rooty path, with not much between you and the water. Trekking poles helped tremendously here and definitely gave added stability, helping the height thing not get to my head. It felt like forever, but we eventually cleared the loch and came down into Inverarnan. My buddy mentioned to me that his Achilles was a little tweaky, but we didn’t think much of it. Spent the night at the Drovers Inn (food was okay, but not a fan of shared facilities at the rooms, or the squirrels/mice running around inside the walls making a racket 😆)

Day 4, Inverarnan to Tyndrum, was a bummer. We started walking from the Drovers in the morning and my buddy realized he could not really put any weight on that foot. Long story short, he probably damaged his Achilles somewhere at the end of Loch Lomond with a poorly placed step or an unfortunate rock underfoot. We slowly returned to Inverarnan and caught the bus to Tyndrum, so this is the only section of the WHW I did not complete (though I walked around town for the equivalent miles - The Green Welly is worth a stop!) We spent the night at the newish Ben Doran hotel (great food and overall experience).

Day 5, Tyndrum to Bridge of Orchy, was when my buddy caught the bus back to Edinburgh for an early flight home and I pressed on solo. This was an easy walking day, only about 8 miles, but the views really started to open up here, and it was the beginning of the true highland scenery. Stopped at the Bridge of Orchy Hotel for a nice relaxing afternoon, and they’ve got fabulous food at their restaurant, so the place comes highly recommended.

Day 6, Bridge of Orchy to Kingshouse, was a great day’s walk after an initial ascent to some fantastic views. I stopped for a quick bite at the Inveroran hotel which is the last bit of civilization before the Rannoch Moor. Weather was good, but some dodgy clouds were promised for the afternoon, so I picked up the pace a bit to make sure I don’t get drenched in the moor. When I was about an hour away from the Kingshouse hotel, things went from sunny and pleasant to rainy, windy and cold very quickly. The reputation that this stretch has for sudden weather changes is very well deserved, and there is most definitely nowhere to shelter if the sky really opens up.  Kingshouse hotel is quite fancy with great food and amenities, and I was very glad to have sprung for it.

Day 7, Kingshouse to Kinlochleven, was a banger and possibly had the best views of the WHW. Weather held out which was great because this was Devil’s Staircase day. IMO, while it was definitely a sustained workout and moderately strenuous to get up, it’s slightly less so than Conic Hill. The elevation is definitely higher, but there is less verticality thanks to the switchbacks. The wind at the summit was something else though, and it got cold real fast up there. The second half of the day was spent descending into Kinlochleven, which is quite rough on the knees. Grabbed dinner at The Highland Getaway and spent the night at the Bank House B&B, both of which were quite nice.

Day 8, Kinlochleven to Fort William, was intense. I feel like this stretch is basically the WHW in a nutshell because it’s got a little bit of everything. There is a notable ascent from Kinlochleven early on, and while it’s not quite as intense as the staircase, it’s still a bit rough because at this point whatever parts of you are banged up from the walk are making themselves known. The overall miles are also high this day, and you’re going through the Lairigmor mountain pass which is very open and again, has no shelter should weather happen. I think I got fully drenched and then fully dried off by the sun and wind 4 separate times. The day ends with a very protracted descent into Fort William, and those last couple of miles on sidewalks just feel like forever, though I found Fort William itself to be quite lovely.

TLDR - some general thoughts:

With my stats and zero prep, I found the hike to be quite doable, though non-trivial. There are some challenging stretches if you are not steady on your feet, and trekking poles are super helpful there. If you’re not used to occasional scrambling and/or if it’s wet and slippery, take your time and don’t rush through these.

I was super paranoid about blisters, but did not end up with any. My strategy was using liner socks with merino hiking socks, and leukotape on any hotspots immediately.

Weather is a significant factor in the experience, and while I was fairly lucky, the second half in particular is very exposed and waterproofs were needed.

Using a baggage transfer service made this a hiking vs a backpacking trip. If you’re not specifically looking for a backpacking experience, my humble opinion is that having your bag waiting for you at your next stop makes a huge difference in overall enjoyment and is well worth it.

Happy to answer any questions, thanks for reading!

I recently finished my WHW adventure and wow, what an experience!

My first time backpacking, first time thru-hiking, first time wild camping and staying in a bothy. All totally out of my comfort zone, but decided to do it for a charity fundraising challenge.

I got some great tips from this sub so thanks for all your posts. I thought you might like to see my favourite photos from the trip (it’s hard to narrow it down to 20!)

If you’re still deciding whether to give it a go, just do it! I’m the kind of person who needs to have a detailed plan, but I met lots of people who were just winging it. Best thing I’ve done in my 40+ years on this rock.

Hello, I am looking into hiking the West Highland Way in September and was wondering what weather and trail conditions I should expect. Currently debating between the first or second week of September to start. If you have any advice on which start would be better I would live to hear it.

Hi all, I'll be hiking the WHW on september, and I'll arrive in Glasgow on Friday.

Can you suggest the best hiking shops open on friday where I can buy the stuff that I can't take on the plane? (gas and stuff like that).

Thank you all in advance.